August 2, 2018

It’s been a hard time.  Jonathan Gold’s death has been so shocking and terrible, I haven’t been able to think about much else.  It’s a huge loss, not only to those of us who knew and loved him, but to the entire world of food.

I was in Italy when he went into the hospital.  When I told Massimo Bottura, he burst into tears. And then he fed me the dish at the top.  Could anything be more appropriate?

It’s fish two ways: the black biscuit is a smush of raw sardine. The liquid is the most intense, most delicious broth.  Jonathan would have loved it.

Other dishes I wished Jonathan had been there to share with me:

Eel swimming up the Po River: we shared this dish last year, when we were in Modena together. The eel is flanked on one side by polenta, on the other by a wonderfully acetic apple reduction.

The yin to the yang of Burnt: Sole.

Five ages of Parmesan in different textures and temperatures.


A new dish: tortelloni of snails, hare and herbs.  I cried eating this because Jonathan will never get to taste it.

Zuppa Inglese



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1 Comment

  • Laura says:

    I have been following food culture long enough to understand the loss. I hope the grace of his presence in your life can sustain you as you continue to lead us in our own journey of learning and enjoying the world’s food options.


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