Paris Notes, 1

November 13, 2019

Paris may now be one of the most underrated restaurant cities in the world.  Everyone talks about Spain, about Copenhagen, about Los Angeles, and while it’s true that there was a moment – 10 or 15 years ago – when Paris restaurants started seeming really old-fashioned (especially compared to the new young energy everywhere else,) at this moment, it’s on fire.

During a long weekend in Paris I ate some of the most exciting food I’ve encountered anywhere.

Case in point: Maison.  Sota Atsumi, who was the chef at Clown Bar, has opened this serene space with an open kitchen where you can watch the chefs cooking in the wood-burning oven and grilling over a hibachi.  There are just a few widely spaced tables, and the sound level is just about perfect.

The 55 euro lunch may be one of the better restaurant bargains in the world right now.

Our meal began with an array of tiny tartlettes:

beet and haddock;  comte cheese with pumpkin,; onion, hazelnut and smoked ricotta.

 

 

A curl of delicate raw yellowtail  with tomato water, capers and tarragon

 

 

 

Gently charred rouget with a little compote of mussels, leeks, sweet peppers and herbs

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

A pithiviers of duck with foie gras and a quince compote and a side dish of beets, turnips and daikon

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

Even the cheeses were special – a local goat, fresh from the farm, fourme d’ambert and the most amazing “black brie” from a local farmer. This is brie that has grown up, gained savvy, gotten tough.

 

 

 

Hazelnut Paris-Brest – with the most seductive caramelized apples with a little nub of vanilla ice cream flavored with Calvados.

 

 

 

 

 

 

Maybe it’s because all of this food was so exactly to my taste – but it is hard for me to imagine a more perfect meal. And equally hard to imagine how you could possibly get this in New York for $55, tax and tip included.

 

I loved the food at Semilla too – a more relaxed, less ambitious restaurant where every dish is carefully conceived and beautifully plated.

A small blue-fish,  marinated,  with tangerine, crisp fennel and radishes.

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

The loveliest beet salad – beets of many colors surrounded a  beet granita, with green mayonnaise and fresh cheese.

 

Salad of different radishes with tarama, trout roe and satsuma tangerines.

 

 

Risotto with cepes and white wine.

 

 

 

 

 

Fabulous duck

 

 

 

 

Sweetbread

 

 

 

Bonito, simply steamed in a bed of bok choi – really light.

 

 

 

 

 

Fresh figs with shiso sorbet

And to go with everything, the amazingly delicious Bandol Blanc from Domaine Tempier. We floated out the door.

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4 Comments

  • Carolyn says:

    Thanks, Ruth, for the flight-free, delicious trip to Paris!

  • Dana says:

    Thank you, Ruth! Big-time, long-time fan of your refreshingly open and creative attitude which celebrates the fabulous feeling and taste of diverse foods. Your enthusiasm is infectious. I’m so glad you had a bon voyage. “We floated out the door” fabulous! Please never stop writing 🙂

  • Magdi Gioffre says:

    I will be going to Paris in January . What is the address of this restaurant.

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