Gift Guide 20: Going Fishing

November 18, 2020

Sushi. That’s one of the things I’ve missed most during the Covid epidemic. Being in a land-locked rural area I find myself dreaming of sushi. A few months ago the cravings became so intense that I decided to order some pristine fish and cut it myself.

And so I developed a relationship with Browne Trading Company, which has been selling fish to the likes of Eric Ripert, Thomas Keller and Daniel Boulud for many years. Their website is like catnip to people like me: some days I just troll through it for the sheer pleasure of looking at their many wonderful offerings. Carabineros – huge head-on shrimp from Spain – in a red so intense it practically glows. Caviar of all kinds. Yellowtail collars (you simply stick them in the oven for the most delicious treat), peeky toe crab, hamachi, Dover sole….

The offerings vary with the seasons, but sometimes, if you’re very lucky, they have the gorgeous tuna in the picture above. Unlike some of the other offerings (learning to cut the hamachi filets takes a bit of work), the tuna is so lush that slicing it into sashimi could not be easier.

If you have fish-loving friends, they’ll be delighted with almost anything from Browne Trading Company. And if you’re simply looking for a way to spend a few delicious minutes, you could hardly do better than their website.

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Gift Guide 2020: Pan-O-Rama

November 17, 2020

I didn’t want to love this Always pan.  I didn’t even want to like it.  So many people were enamored with it that the thing was sold out. It couldn’t possibly be that good.

So I ordered it, wanting to hate it.

I’m sorry.  I didn’t.  

It’s not all that.  It won’t replace every pan in your repertoire.  But honestly? It’s the pan I reach for more often the I’d like to admit.  

I’m not a big non-stick person. The truth is, at least half the time you want a pan that will give you a good sear, and nonstick isn’t the perfect way to get a Maillard reaction.

But for almost every other kind of cooking adventure, this might be your pan.  It’s the best non-stick surface I’ve yet to encounter.  It’s a great size for many different things. It feels good in your hand, it’s lightweight and the way you can rest the spoon right on the handle is kind of genius. 

It comes in a wide range of colors (some more easily available than others), and at the moment it’s on sale.`

As. I said, I didn’t want to love it. I pretty much do.  And your friends will too. 

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Gift Guide 2020

November 16, 2020

If ever we need presents, this is the time. So once again I’m going to be posting a daily suggestion of swell items you might send your friends.

Never have I been better prepared. For the past 9 months the mailmen have been beating a daily path to my door, and I’ve discovered all sorts of new items you can send away for. And since the mails might be slightly overwhelmed this year, I’m starting earlier than usual.

To begin, my current obsession: the best anchovies in the world.

If you don’t like anchovies, it’s because you’ve never tasted these very special little fish from Cantabria in the north of Spain. They are in a class of their own.

Fished only in the springtime, when the quality is at its peek, they’re quickly salted and left in presses to mature for at least eight months. Then they are washed and filleted by hand before being plunked into extra virgin olive oil. The result is a rich, sweet, full flavor that you simply can’t forget. These aren’t anchovies to cook with; they’re anchovies to eat.

They’re crazily expensive – about $2 a filet – which makes them an excellent gift. Although I must tell you that your friends may not thank you. These tiny fish are truly addictive, and they quickly become a very expensive habit.

I’ve tried many different brands, and Don Boccarte from Dao Foods are, hands down my favorite. They’re also the most expensive, so lately I’ve been ordering the giant tin – 550 grams – which cuts the price almost in half.

I might mention that I’m also very fond of these anchovy-stuffed olives. Serve them with drinks and watch them disappear.


An Old Fashioned Cantonese Restaurant Dish.

April 19, 2020

So many people have asked for the recipe for the Shrimp with Lobster Sauce I posted on Instagram. So here it is. (If you’re wondering why it contains no lobster, it’s because the dish was originally made with lobster, not shrimp. So it’s shrimp with a sauce meant for lobster.)

1/2 pound shrimp

2 teaspoons soy sauce

1 tablespoon fermented black beans

1 large clove garlic

2 scallions

1 1/2 cups chicken broth

1/2 teaspoon sugar

2 tablespoons Shaoxing wine

1/2 teaspoon sesame oil

2 tablespoons cornstarch

2 tablespoons neutral oil

1/4 pound ground pork

handful of frozen peas

1 egg

Peel the shrimp, pour the soy sauce over them, and allow to sit while you prepare the rest of the ingredients.

Soak the fermented black beans in warm water for a few minutes, until they soften, then chop them finely.

Mince the garlic. Slice the scallions.

Mix broth, sugar, wine and sesame oil.

Make a slurry of the cornstarch by adding 2 tablespoons of water.

Get a wok hot, add the oil, then toss in the pork and cook until it loses its pink color. Add the garlic and black beans, stir fry for a few seconds, then add the shrimp and toss until they turn pink.

Add the broth mixture and peas, and bring to a simmer. Once it begins to bubble, add most of the cornstarch slurry and watch it thicken until it can coat a spoon. If it can’t, add more of the slurry. If it gets too thick, thin it with a bit of water.

Stir in the beaten egg and toss until it has been incorporated. Add the sliced scallions, stir a couple more times and serve over white rice

This will feed two people generously.

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