Recipes for Desserts

Today’s Perfect Recipe

September 1, 2017

This is one of America’s best-loved fall desserts. And for good reason. Originally published in the New York Times by Marion Burros, it has been tweaked by any number of people. Including me.

Prune plums have a short season, that begins now.  Rather dull eaten out of hand, they positively sing when baked into this sweet fruity cake.

Plum Torte

1 stick (4 oz.) unsalted butter, softened

1/2 cup sugar

2 eggs, room temperature

3/4 cup buttermilk or plain yogurt

1/2 teaspoon vanilla

zest of one lemon

1 1/2 cups all-purpose flour

1 teaspoon baking powder

1/2 teaspoon salt

1/2 teaspoon baking soda

12 large or 20 small prune plums, pits removed, halved the long way

4 tablespoons brown sugar, divided

Heat an oven to 350 degrees

Prepare a 9-inch round cake pan with high sides. (You really do need the height; a spring form pan is a good option.) Butter the bottom and sides of the pan, and line the bottom with parchment paper.  Butter the parchment paper and dust the whole pan with flour.

Cream the butter with the sugar until light and fluffy in a standing mixer for about 5 minutes.

Add the eggs one at a time and thoroughly combine after each addition. If the batter appears curdled, do not worry, it is because the eggs may be cooler than the rest of the mixture, and the butter hardened when the eggs were added. The batter will become smooth with the addition of the flour..

Beat in the the buttermilk or yogurt and add the vanilla and lemon zest, medium speed

Whisk together the flour, the baking powder, and salt, and add to the butter mixture until just combined.

Separate the halved plums into two equal piles.

Spoon half the batter into the pan and level the top with a small offset spatula.

Place the plums, cut side down on the batter, and sprinkle with two tablespoons brown sugar.

Spoon the rest of the mixture over the plums, and place the rest of the plums on top cut side up. Sprinkle with the remaining brown sugar.

Bake for 50-60 minutes until golden.

Cool the cake on a rack for 5 minutes. The cake will pull away from the sides of the pan.

Run a knife around the edge of the cake. Invert onto a plate, peel away the paper, and invert again onto a serving plate.

Best served warm but delicious at any temperature.

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Sour Cherry Crostata

July 8, 2017

Sour Cherry Crostata

Most sour cherry recipes are too sweet, which ruins the unique flavor of this elusive fruit.  This one, I think, is just about perfect.  Another bonus: unlike so many pastries, this one is better when it’s had a little time to itself, and it tastes better on day two (provided it actually lasts that long).

Crostata Crust

This can be a soft and difficult dough to work with in the heat of summer.  But unlike regular pie dough, it’s a cookie-like pastry that’s very forgiving, and refuses to get tough, no matter how much you handle it. When it gets too soft, simply put it back in the refrigerator for five minutes to let it cool off. It will become much more accommodating.

Mix one and a half sticks of soft butter with a third cup of sugar in a stand mixer until fluffy. 

Break an egg into a small dish; reserve a bit to wash the pastry later, and add the rest of the egg to the butter. Toss in a teaspoon of vanilla.

Grate the rind of one lemon into 2 and a quarter cups of flour. Add a pinch of salt and slowly add to the butter/egg mixture until it just comes together.  Divide into two disks, wrap in wax paper, and put in the refrigerator to chill for half an hour.

Meanwhile, make the cherry filling by removing the pits from 2 pints of fresh sour cherries; you should have 4 cups once the pits are removed. To pit the cherries, open a paper clip one fold, and use it to flip the pits out.  Works like a charm!  The pitted cherries freeze well; I try to freeze enough to last at least until Christmas.  Do not defrost before using.

Melt three tablespoons of butter in a large skillet.  Add the cherries, a half cup of sugar and the juice of one lemon and stir gently, just until the liquids come to a boil. Don’t cook them too long or the cherries will start to fall apart.

Make a slurry of 3 tablespoons of cornstarch with 3 tablespoons of cold water and stir it into the boiling cherries. Cook for about two minutes, stirring, just until the mixture becomes clear and thick.  Allow to cool.

Preheat the oven to 375 and put a baking sheet on the middle shelf.

Remove the pastry disks from the refrigerator.  Roll out the first one, between two sheets of plastic wrap, to a round about twelve inches in diameter.  This is the tricky part: invert it into a 9 inch fluted tart pan, preferably one with high sides.  It will probably tear; don’t worry, just patch it all up and put it back into the refrigerator.

Roll out the second disk in the same manner, put it onto a baking sheet (still on the plastic wrap), remove the top sheet of plastic and cut this into 8 or 10 strips, about an inch wide.  Put the baking sheet into the refrigerator to chill for a few minutes.

Remove the tart shell and the strips from the refrigerator.  Pour the cherry filling into the tart shell. Now make a lattice of the strips on the top, criss-crossing them diagonally.  Don’t worry if they’re not perfect; no matter what you do, the tart’s going to look lovely when it emerges from the oven.  Brush the strips with the remaining beaten egg, sprinkle with sugar and put into the oven on the baking sheet.  (You need the sheet to keep cherry juices from spilling onto the oven floor.)  Bake for about 45 minutes, until golden.

Cool for an hour, on a rack, before removing the side of the tart pan.

Eat gratefully, knowing that fresh sour cherries are a short-lived summer treat.

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Gift Guide: A Cake for Christmas

December 23, 2016

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Part sticky toffee pudding, part upside down cake, this glorious English confection comes together easily, requires no exotic ingredients- and is a guaranteed crowd pleaser. Best of all, it fills your house with the warm mingled aroma of ginger, nutmeg, clove and cinnamon.

If you’re looking for the perfect dessert to take to a Christmas feast, look no farther.  This is easy to transport, and it keeps very well.

Should you want to make this a really impressive present, throw in a 10 inch pre-seasoned cast iron skillet.l8sk3_nYou can find them at most stores – or go right to the source, the Lodge Company.  I consider this particular skillet an essential kitchen tool; you can never have too many.

And now… The Perfect Christmas Cake

Sticky Upside Down Pear and Gingerbread Cake

Preheat the oven to 350.

Butter a 9 1/2 or 10 inch cake tin, then line the bottom with parchment paper.  (Alternatively, use a 10 inch cast iron skillet; if it’s well-seasoned you won’t need the parchment paper.)

Melt 2/3 of a stick of butter with 3/4 cup of brown sugar in a small pot until it turns into a creamy, caramel-colored glop.  Pour it into the cake tin and tip the pan to make the syrup evenly cover the bottom of the pan.

Peel 4 fat Bosc pears and cut off the tip and bottom end. (Do not core them; they’ll look so much better left to their own devices). Cut each pear in half and lay it in the pan, cut side down, with its tip pointing into the center of the pan. Set aside while you mix the gingerbread.

Put 1 and a half cups of all purpose flour into a small bowl.  Whisk in 3/4 teaspoon of baking soda, 1/4 teaspoon salt, 1 teaspoon ground cinnamon, and a teaspoon of ground ginger. Grate in a bit of nutmeg. Add a pinch of ground clove.

In another bowl beat 2 eggs.  Stir in a cup of brown sugar, 1/2 cup molasses or sorghum, 2/3 cups milk and a stick of melted butter. Grate in a small knob of fresh ginger.

Add the flour mixture to the egg mixture and mix until comes together into a smooth batter.  Pour over the pears, smooth the top and bake for 45 to 50 minutes until a toothpick comes out fairly clean.

Set on a wire rack to cool for a few minutes, then run a knife around the edge.

Find a large plate or cake platter. Place a sturdy oven mitt on each hand. Set the plate on top of the cake, then turn the whole thing upside down as quickly as possible.  The cake should slide easily out of the pan, leaving the pears smiling up at you. 

Serve warm or at room temperature with vanilla ice cream.

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Ginger, Apples, Lemon, Pepper – Baked into a Cake

October 26, 2016

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It’s a perfect applesauce day, and the kitchen has been perfumed with the good scent of apples slumping into sauce, sending out little hints of lemon and cinnamon.

With the sauce made, I couldn’t help myself; I used some of it to bake this cake. It’s a good keeper, and will make a find snack over the coming days when the light leaks out of the sky too early, slamming us into night before I’m really ready. Besides, there are days when I’d bake this cake for the pure pleasure of the aroma.

When I was working on My Kitchen Year, I decided to put all the recipes in classic form, just in case the publishers balked at the conversational tone at the last minute.  Happily, they didn’t; I much prefer the relaxed fashion of the recipes in the book. But for those who’d rather have marching orders, here they are.

Applesauce

4-6 apples, peeled and cored

1 teaspoon lemon juice

3 tablespoons water

1 stick of cinnamon

1 teaspoon sugar

Cook the apples with the lemon juice, water, cinnamon stick, and sugar in a medium saucepan, uncovered, until the apples are soft enough to mash with a fork, about 20 minutes. Remove the cinnamon stick and season with more sugar to taste.

Gingered Applesauce Cake Glazed with Caramel

2 eggs

1 cup sugar

1/2 cup brown sugar

1 1/2 cups applesauce

1 1/2 teaspoons grated fresh ginger

2/3 cup vegetable oil

1 teaspoon vanilla

2 cups flour

1 1/2 teaspoons baking soda

1 teaspoon salt

1/2 teaspoon finely ground black pepper

2 teaspoons cinnamon

1/4 teaspoon ground cloves

Heat the oven to 350 degrees.

  1. Butter and flour a 12-cup Bundt pan.
  2. Break two eggs into a large bowl. Whisk in the sugar and the brown sugar.  Add the grated ginger and the applesauce.  Whisk in the oil and vanilla and mix until it is smooth.
  3. Whisk the baking soda, salt, pepper, cinnamon and clove into the flour in a small bowl.  Mix this gently into the applesauce mixture.
  4. Pour the batter into a buttered and floured 12-cup bundt pan and bake for about 45 minutes, until it is set. 
  5. Cool the cake for 15 minutes on a rack before turning it out and allowing it to cool.  Make sure the cake is completely cool before glazing it. 

Glaze:

1 cup heavy cream

1/2 cup brown sugar

1 tablespoon light corn syrup

pinch salt

1 teaspoon vanilla.

Put the cream in a small heavy-bottomed pot. Whisk in the sugar, salt and corn syrup and bring to a boil. Turn the heat down to medium and continue to boil for about 15 minutes, whisking every few minutes.

When the the glaze has come together into a smooth, thick caramel remove from heat and stir in the vanilla.

Put the cake, still on the rack, over a sheet of wax paper. Carefully pour the glaze over the cake.

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A Red Tart

September 25, 2016

fullsizerender-2Raspberry Tart for the End of Summer

Found raspberries at the farmers’ market yesterday, and of course I had to buy them.  They won’t be around much longer. Then I went home and baked them into this simple tart.

I love this tart because it’s extremely fruit-forward,  cradling the delicate flavor of the berries in a flaky crust and crumbled topping that is not too sweet. There’s nothing to get in the way of the pure, clean expression of the fruit.

As the tart bakes the aroma will fill your house with the scent of summer.  What a lovely thing to experience as we head into fall.

Pastry

Whisk a bit of salt into a cup and a quarter of all-purpose flour. Cut a stick of cold sweet butter into cubes and, using a pastry cutter or two knives, incorporate the butter into the flour. Dribble in a couple tablespoons of ice water and some vodka and stir gently with a fork just until the dough holds together. Add more liquid as needed, gather it into a ball, then press it down into a disc, wrap in wax paper and put the dough into the refrigerator to rest for at least an hour.

Remove the dough from the refrigerator, allow it to sit at room temperature for a few minutes, then roll out on a lightly floured surface and fit into an 8 or 9 inch tart pan with a removable bottom.  Place in the freezer for 20 minutes or so.

Tart

Preheat the oven to 425 degrees.

Remove the tart shell from the freezer and fill it with raspberries; it should take about 3 6-ounce packages. 

Melt a stick of butter and stir in 3/4 cups of sugar.  Toss in a bit of salt and a few drops of vanilla, then stir in between 3/4 and a cup of flour, until it is quite thick. Crumble this over the top of the tart.

Set the tart on the lowest shelf of the oven, and bake for ten minutes before turning the heat down to 375 and baking for about 50 minutes more, or until the top is golden.  Set on a rack to cool for about half an hour, then remove. 

Allow the tart to cool completely before serving.

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