Recipes for Uncategorized
October 29, 2017
Been traveling a lot lately….
Last week I was in Los Angeles, to give Nancy Silverton an award for all the work she does for children. The party, at the rather astonishing Greenacres, former home of Harold Lloyd, was a dazzling evening of great food and wonderful people, a fund raiser for No Kid Hungry that raised a serious lot of money. Here’s the menu:
This week it was off to DC, to honor Danny Meyer at the Julia Child Awards at The Smithsonian. Another fantastic evening of great people and delicious food. –
The Smithsonian followed the Gala with a weekend of programming, and I have to say that the roundtables were both illuminating and utterly fascinating. Here’s the schedule. I was so impressed by the people on the panels that I’m buying virtually ALL of their books.
June 12, 2017
Before you begin, steaming is the best way to hard-boil new-laid eggs. Directions are here.
Pink Deviled Eggs
6 eggs, hard-boiled and shelled
1 jar pickled beet juice, or if you can’t find it pickled, you can use a bottle of plain beet juice, enough to cover the eggs.
1 teaspoon mustard
¼ cup mayonnaise
¼ teaspoon sea salt
a few grinds of freshly ground pepper
2 teaspoons Sriracha sauce
1. Put the eggs into a pot of cold water and bring to a boil.
2. After boiling for 30 seconds, remove the pot from the stove and let the eggs sit for 15 minutes in the hot water.
3. Run the eggs under cold water and carefully peel the shells.
4. Arrange the eggs in a bowl just large enough to accommodate them and pour in enough beet juice to cover. If there is not enough juice, add a little water.
5. Cover with plastic wrap and refrigerate for 18 hours.
6. Cut the eggs in half lengthwise and scoop out the yolk.
7. Combine the yolk with mayonnaise, salt, pepper, and Sriracha sauce.
8. Fill the eggs with about 1 teaspoon each of the yolk mixture.
9. Top with fresh dill or pea shoot leaves (or a triangle of sweet pickle, a bit of red chile……)
June 6, 2017
The Association for Psychoanalytic Medicine
the collaborating society of the
Columbia University Center for Psychoanalytic Training and Research
Tuesday, June 6, 2017 at 8:00 p.m.
New York Academy of Medicine, 2 East 103rd Street at Fifth Avenue
Open to all • No advanced registration required
A Gustatory Journey with Chef, Food Critic, and Memoirist Ruth Reichl
in conversation with Dr. Susan Scheftel
Chef and food writer Ruth Reichl’s acclaimed memoirs touch on her relationship with her brilliant, ambitious mother, a woman limited by both bipolar illness and pressure to conform with societal ideals of feminine domesticity. Raised in Greenwich Village, the young Ruth ventured through communes in Berkeley and the sexism of the restaurant world to become food critic for the New York Times, editor-in-chief of Gourmet magazine, and winner of four James Beard awards. Her works in include Tender at the Bone: Growing Up at the Table, Garlic and Sapphires: The Secret Life of a Critic in Disguise, and My Kitchen Year: 136 Recipes That Saved My Life. In her later memoir (Not Becoming My Mother, renamed For You, Mom. Finally!) Reichl delves into a trove of her mother’s letters and diaries to poignantly reconsider this complex woman from the vantage point of experience and maturity.
Join us as Columbia University psychoanalyst Susan Scheftel, Ph.D. explores such themes as the role of food in Reichl’s relationship with her mother, the sublimatory power of cooking and writing, and Reichl’s overdetermined and serendipitous career.
Questions about the program can be addressed to:
Hillery Bosworth, MD
Chair, Program Committee
80 Fifth Avenue #1001
New York, New York 10011
April 5, 2017
I’ve never had the pleasure of encountering this incredible multi-volume Chinese Food Encyclopedia until today. And after I did, after I’d looked through the whole Sichuan volume page-by-page, I had no option but to walk outside, head a few blocks south, and into the first decent Chinese restaurant I encountered. What did I order when I got there? Mapo tofu and rice, of course. Here’s the dish from Grandma Cheng’s, in 1984:
Though the whole encyclopedia was printed in Japan, this volume was written entirely by Sichuan writers. Each of the recipes comes from one of the best restaurants inthe province. This is Grandma Cheng’s, the institution credited for popularizing the dish:
And here’s the charming recipe:
The factory where all of their tofu is made:
And the most astonishing knife skills I’ve seen in some time:
March 7, 2017
The dinner honoring Daniel Boulud at the Charleston Wine and Food Festival was a dream of a feast. Held in a private penthouse overlooking the harbor, each dish was paired with astonishing wines, starting with magnums of Krug Grande Cuvee.
The first course, by Jean-Francois Bruel, current Executive Chef at Restaurant Daniel, was even more delicious than it looks in the picture above. Not easy; it would be hard to come up with a prettier plate. Slices of citrus-marinated scallop, caviar, crisp notes of radish, a hint of wasabi… Tiny kisshu oysters were hiding somewhere, along with crunchy little bits rumored to be Budda’s hand. The scallops were served with a very amiable Trimbach Riesling, 2009 Clos Sainte Hume that made them very happy.
Kavin Kaysen (of Spoon and Stable and Bellecour in Minneapolis) concocted this little confection – a mere couple of bites – of gently cooked langoustine topped with crunchy popped rice on a puddle of charred eggplant and another of red curry. So delicious! With it we drank a 2012 Drouhin Montrachet Marquis de Laguiche poured out of magnums.
Andrew Carmellini has too many restaurants to list here. Should we go with The Dutch or Locanda Verde? His complex French-inflected lasagna layered gossamer sheets of pasta, delicate as flower petals, with sliced truffles and Parmesan cream. It all went whispering into the mouth before the flavors exploded. The 2013 Gevrey-Chambertin Coeur du Roy from Domaine Dugat-Py was an ideal companion.
Normand Laprise came down from Canada to cook for the event. He proudly served this rare magret of duck, the steely flavor edged with the bittersweet taste of sea buckthorn. To drink? A big bold 2009 Chateauneuf du Pape Reserve des Celestins from Henri Bonneau.
Clearly the wine was getting to me. By the time the fifth course rolled around – Wagyu beef with charred onions, salsify and trumpet mushrooms – we’d been at the table for hours, dozens of speeches had been made, and I neglected to take its picture. But the dish, by Gramercy Tavern’s Michael Anthony, was a triumph. So was the 2005 Colgin IX Estate, a stately American claret.
And then dessert, this elegant little waltz of cakes, creams, confits and mousselines by Remy Funfrock of the Sanctuary at Kiawah Island served with – are you ready? – 1996 Yquem.
And so to bed. Well, almost. A final speech by Mickey Bakst, who conceived the entire affair. (Mickey himself is so beloved in the restaurant world he’s known as “America’s Maitre d’.”) A few more words from Daniel himself, perhaps the most gracious man on the planet. Each time someone rose to honor him, Daniel gave it right back, honoring the honorer. The final gift? At the door each guest was presented with Daniel’s latest book, signed with a deeply personal note.