July 10, 2017
Looking for something cool to cook on this high summer day? Herewith, a couple of suggestion from Gourmet, August 1977
to mix well. Serves 6 to 8.
This is one of my all time favorite sandwiches. Salad on a roll.
July 8, 2017
Sour Cherry Crostata
Most sour cherry recipes are too sweet, which ruins the unique flavor of this elusive fruit. This one, I think, is just about perfect. Another bonus: unlike so many pastries, this one is better when it’s had a little time to itself, and it tastes better on day two (provided it actually lasts that long).
This can be a soft and difficult dough to work with in the heat of summer. But unlike regular pie dough, it’s a cookie-like pastry that’s very forgiving, and refuses to get tough, no matter how much you handle it. When it gets too soft, simply put it back in the refrigerator for five minutes to let it cool off. It will become much more accommodating.
Mix one and a half sticks of soft butter with a third cup of sugar in a stand mixer until fluffy.
Break an egg into a small dish; reserve a bit to wash the pastry later, and add the rest of the egg to the butter. Toss in a teaspoon of vanilla.
Grate the rind of one lemon into 2 and a quarter cups of flour. Add a pinch of salt and slowly add to the butter/egg mixture until it just comes together. Divide into two disks, wrap in wax paper, and put in the refrigerator to chill for half an hour.
Meanwhile, make the cherry filling by removing the pits from 2 pints of fresh sour cherries; you should have 4 cups once the pits are removed. To pit the cherries, open a paper clip one fold, and use it to flip the pits out. Works like a charm! The pitted cherries freeze well; I try to freeze enough to last at least until Christmas. Do not defrost before using.
Melt three tablespoons of butter in a large skillet. Add the cherries, a half cup of sugar and the juice of one lemon and stir gently, just until the liquids come to a boil. Don’t cook them too long or the cherries will start to fall apart.
Make a slurry of 3 tablespoons of cornstarch with 3 tablespoons of cold water and stir it into the boiling cherries. Cook for about two minutes, stirring, just until the mixture becomes clear and thick. Allow to cool.
Preheat the oven to 375 and put a baking sheet on the middle shelf.
Remove the pastry disks from the refrigerator. Roll out the first one, between two sheets of plastic wrap, to a round about twelve inches in diameter. This is the tricky part: invert it into a 9 inch fluted tart pan, preferably one with high sides. It will probably tear; don’t worry, just patch it all up and put it back into the refrigerator.
Roll out the second disk in the same manner, put it onto a baking sheet (still on the plastic wrap), remove the top sheet of plastic and cut this into 8 or 10 strips, about an inch wide. Put the baking sheet into the refrigerator to chill for a few minutes.
Remove the tart shell and the strips from the refrigerator. Pour the cherry filling into the tart shell. Now make a lattice of the strips on the top, criss-crossing them diagonally. Don’t worry if they’re not perfect; no matter what you do, the tart’s going to look lovely when it emerges from the oven. Brush the strips with the remaining beaten egg, sprinkle with sugar and put into the oven on the baking sheet. (You need the sheet to keep cherry juices from spilling onto the oven floor.) Bake for about 45 minutes, until golden.
Cool for an hour, on a rack, before removing the side of the tart pan.
Eat gratefully, knowing that fresh sour cherries are a short-lived summer treat.
July 5, 2017
I’m not one of those people who has an entire wardrobe of flavored salts. Lots of different salts, yes, in various shapes and colors. But salt flavored with smoke or seaweed or chile has never done much for me.
Then I discovered Shed’s Shiso Salt.
It has a bright flavor unlike anything I’ve encountered before; somehow it mellows the bite of shiso, giving it a lovely hint of sweetness. Rumors of sunny fields float through this salt, along with a tantalizing herbal lilt. Lately I find myself sprinkling it on just about everything: eggs, bread, tomatoes, salad. Made a lamb curry the other night, and found myself shaking some into that as well. It was the perfect touch.
June 29, 2017
As promised, from Gourmet, July 1982, suggestions for miniature food for the fourth.
Frankly, making any one of these doll-sized dishes sounds like torture to me.
June 28, 2017
Gourmet was very much into miniature food in the early eighties. The magazine’s suggestion for a festive way to celebrate the fourth of July included all manner of tiny dishes. More tomorrow, but for now, here is their recipe for miniature burgers and buns (along with the perfect drink).