December 17, 2018
You know how sad clementines can be when you bring them home? You’re looking for something juicy, bright, fresh – but they’re just kind of hard and miserable?
Contemplating an entire bag of the things, it hit me that I should try roasting them. All fruits and vegetables get better when they’re blasted with heat. So I peeled the clementines, separated them into sections and took off as much of the white strings as I could. I slicked a cast iron pan with olive oil, cranked up the heat and roasted the sections for a couple minutes a side until they were slightly charred.
But then what? It wasn’t quite enough. So I heated a bit of olive oil, tossed in some red pepper flakes and a few sprigs of the rosemary plant that lives in my kitchen. I added a couple drops of cider syrup (anything sweet would do), and a splash of vinegar, and let that sit on the stove for a few minutes. Then I poured it over the tangerine slices and let them marinate all day.
I served them, sprinkled with salt and a few grindings of kampot pepper, on crackers spread with ricotta. They’re also great with sliced prosciutto. But I can think of lots of other ways to use these little bites of citrus. Think of them kind of like marmalade in the rough- and let your imagination run wild.
December 16, 2018
I was really sad to read that Shed, the great Healdsburg emporium, restaurant and cooking school is closing its doors. It’s one of the great food institutions of the West, a gorgeous and impeccably curated collection of everything having to do with food. I never fail to stop in when I’m in Sonoma County, and I’ve discovered many of my favorite products there. But alas, the Sonoma fires took a toll on tourism – and thus on this seminal shop.
Happily Shed will continue as an online emporium.
Although they have a slew of wonderful products, what I particularly appreciate is their selection of Japanese goods. The donabe up above is a pretty perfect pot that any cook would be happy to receive. But they’ve also got spectacular organic black sesame oil, made by the same Japanese company for 130 years,
furikake powder, which adds a teasing sweet and savory touch to all manner of dishes
and this lovely stoneware hot pot that goes easily from oven to table.
But don’t take my word for it: go to the site and take a look. I’ll be very surprised if you don’t find something fascinating that you’ve never seen before.
December 15, 2018
The new Aviary Cocktail Book may be the most beautiful book I’ve ever seen. The book is huge and weighs more than 8 pounds, but once you start leafing through it, you’re hooked. Grant Achatz and his team doe nothing by half measure, and everything about the book is compelling. The writing is concise, the recipes meticulous and the photography gorgeous; anyone who cares about cocktails would be thrilled to receive a copy.
And while you’re at it….
you might want to include this beautiful Porthole Infuser, which was originally designed for The Aviary.
Does anybody need this? Probably not. On the other hand that probably means that your friends don’t already have one. And it’s certainly the most beautiful way to make a do-it-yourself project into something lovely. Make flavored vodkas, flavored oils, lemonade…. Or simply fill it up, set it on the counter and let your friends admire it.
December 14, 2018
I love my Blanc Creatives steel pan- it’s the workhorse of my kitchen – but I suggested that last year. (You can read that here.) So this year I thought their lovely cocktail picks would make a very cool gift.
But they were sold out.
But I’ve just learned that the Virginia company has produced a brand new batch. Hand forged of steel, with a little copper holder, they’d make a perfect present. Attractive, useful and unique; this is one gift you can be sure your friends do not already possess.
Order by Sunday, and it will arrive in time for Christmas. (The site still says they’re sold out, but the Blanc people say that will change before the day is out.)
December 13, 2018
Years ago a friend made me a lidded ceramic bowl which I found incredibly useful for everything from making yogurt to keeping foods warm in the kitchen and storing them in the refrigerator. Then I dropped the cover, it shattered… and I’ve been looking for a replacement ever since.
Sarah Kersten, who is probably best known for her beautiful fermentation jars (if you have a fermenter friend, this would be a very welcome present), has finally put her lidded bowls back in production in her Berkeley studio. They look beautiful, take leftovers easily from refrigerator to table, and would make a wonderful gift for almost anyone.