There is so much to taste on the menu here that even half a dozen visits isn't quite enough to exhaust the menu. As soon as you check stewed ribs in earthen pot, cumin-spiked mutton threaded onto toothpicks, deeply smoky tea-flavored duck and garlic leeks sauteed with dense house-cured bacon off your list, you realize that you still have the sauteed root vegetable houttuynia, griddle-cooked bullfrog, and tiny-shape pork with pickled cowpeas yet to try. Sliced fish with tofu pudding is a composition of filets arranged over fresh, soft bean curd and swamped with scarlet chile oil; flour-steamed pork is dredged with chile-laced ground rice, then steamed in a bowl until the texture of the meat and the porridge become one. And there's that Cold Diced Rabbit With Younger Sister's Secret Recipe: utterly bony, buzzing with salty, fermented heat.
At least once, you should try the ice powder, a kind of vegetable thickener the restaurant brings in from Chengdu that transforms sweet liquid into a barely set, tremulous mass — they claim they're the only kitchen outside Sichuan to feature it. Is that canned fruit cocktail on top of the ice powder? Why, yes, it is.