June 22, 2010
Had what may be my favorite lunch today at (a sadly vacant) Matsugen; they call it "bakudan" which means "the bomb." A waiter brings out a lovely little bowl containing a heap of rosy tuna tartare, a few smoothly orange uni, strips of raw squid, pearly white and squeaky clean and a pungent heap of natto. You stir this up with a quail egg and a pile of salmon roe that pop against your teeth. You shake in some soy, add a bit of wasabi and stir again.
Next you open a cedar box holding extremely crisp sheets of dark green seaweed and hold one in your hand. You roll the glorious mush you have just created into the seaweed and eat the little roll with glee and greed. And then you eat another. I could eat this every day. Happily.
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Ushiwakamaru also serves bakudan. One of my favorite dishes of all time. Their version isn’t as fancy (with the toasted nori sheets in the box) but it’s equally as delicious.