April 24, 2011
I've always wanted to dye the eggs themselves, not just the shells. Yesterday it occured to me that if I hardboiled eggs and plopped them into pickled beet juice, they would probably turn pink. And they did – a vibrant, wonderful color.
I was using my neighbor's eggs – laid by happy chickens who produce yolks that are a bright marigold orange. They were gorgeous against the now magenta-colored whites, and simply cut in half they looked lovely.
But I decided to devil them so I could heap the yolks into the pink eggs. I mashed the yolks with some mayonnaise, a bit of mustard and some salt and pepper. I added a splash of Sriracha. And then, at the end, just for the color, I decided to top each one with a little triangle of sweet pickle. They were gorgeous – and delicious.
(You'll need one can of pickled beets for half a dozen eggs; add a little water if the hardboiled eggs aren't completely covered. The longer you leave the eggs in the beet juice, the darker they will become, but if you leave them too long the yolks will begin to begin to take on the color. 18 hours seems about right.)
April 17, 2011
Every cookbook gives you a list of the foods you should always keep on hand. By which they usually mean things like bottles of olive oil and vinegar.
But my recipe for good living involves a tiny bit more work. Yes, I always have bacon, eggs, onions and butter in the house, along with dried pasta. And I've always got lemons, anchovies, miso, soy sauce, Parmesan cheese and chiles on hand too. But my more serious staples mean that a meal is never more than minutes away. They include:
Homemade chicken stock: it is always in my freezer, ready to turn into soup, sauce or risotto, and to improve every vegetable it comes in contact with.
Cooked rice: you can't make fried rice without it.
A couple of boiled potatoes: you never know when you'll decide you have to have some hash browns.
Homemade tomato sauce: keep it in the freezer as a reminder that summer will return.
A pot of black beans: the most satisfying last-minute meal I know. Eat it with rice, roll it into a tortilla, or top it with a fried egg. Utterly restorative.
Wonderful Black Beans
Pick through 2 cups of black beans and remove any stones or ugly beans. Soak them overnight. Drain them in the morning, add 6 cups of water, one chopped onion, a sprig of epazote and a few tablespoons of lard (Mangalitza if you can get it) or bacon drippings. Bring to a boil, cover, turn the heat down and simmer for a couple of hours until the beans are tender. Remove the epazote, stir in a teaspoon of salt, a very healthy glug of cream sherry, a few splashes of soy sauce and another splash of balsamic vinegar. Taste for seasoning. These will keep in the refrigerator for a week – but mine never last that long.