December 5, 2012
This is, I think, the year of the spoon.
For years I’ve proudly used my Gray Kunz spoon for tasting, basting and the like. Chef Kunz designed his clever little spoon years ago, and when he was at the helm of Lespinasse in the nineties every cook who worked there was issued three upon arrival. Chefs tucked them into their pockets, wearing them proudly like a badge of honor and before long they had spread through the city of New York. Now anyone can buy the Gray Kunz spoon; at about ten dollars, it makes a great stocking stuffer.
But the truth is, I don’t use my Kunz spoon much anymore. It’s been supplanted by Michael Ruhlman’s terrific offset spoons. They come in three sizes, they’re perfectly balanced, and they’re great for everything you do in the kitchen – basting, saucing, tasting, removing the fat from stock. (Don't miss his homespun how-to video.) On top of that, they’re beautiful, and I find myself passing up my sterling silver and putting these on the table as serving spoons instead.
Ruhlman’s also designed a wonderful perforated spoon, which turns the difficult job of poaching eggs into child’s play. I’m hoping that, for his next act, Michael will turn his attention to a skimming spoon. I could certainly use a new and improved one.
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