March 17, 2015
Have you read Dan Barber’s book The Third Plate?
It’s the critical text for this moment in food. I recommend it to everyone.
In it, Dan argues that if we’re serious about a sustainable food culture, our understanding of “good food” must evolve to include the leftover bits: the stems, the bones, the wheys. Brilliantly, he shows how reconsidering garbage is also critical to advancing cuisine.
Most food traditions are challenged to make food scraps appetizing in lean times. Think of the ancient – and irresistible – peasant stews of France and China. Think of our own scrapple. But fast food has changed all that; now it's become cheaper than food. And we've become a nation of wasters.
Dan's latest endeavor aims to change that. WastED is a food-scraps pop-up featuring a different star chef each night at Blue Hill; I think it's the most exciting culinary event of 2015. And it's happening right now. The chefs' challenge? Make delicious food out of perfectly good “waste” from every stage of the food production process. Not only will diners play judge to masters at the top of their game – Dominque Crenn, Nancy Silverton, Sean Brock – but they'll get an education. And it's affordable: each dish is only fifteen bucks.
The pop-up runs through the end of this month, so make your plans now. Reservations before 9pm, walk-ins only after.
An example from last night: “rack of cod” with carrot top marmalade and fish skin-parsley vinaigrette!
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