Are Carrots the New Kale?

November 5, 2015

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No relation to the below recipe, but isn’t this a lovely way to serve mashed potatoes? Savoy cabbages are just so beautiful.

But what I want to talk about today is carrots. I’ve been watching as they take over menus in hip restaurants, wondering if they’re primed to be the next kale.  I think we can thank Rene Redzepi for that; his vintage carrot recipe became famous, reminding us all that the humble vegetable can winter over in the ground, becoming sweeter and more delicious with time.  In the most colorless time of the year, it comes joyfully to the table, bringing us a bit of summer. But until now Americans have eaten their carrots raw, sauteed or juiced, which has not done them any favors. Roasted, they take on an entirely new and more robust character. I’m thinking of the great carrots at Alex Stupak’s Empellon.

Then, leafing through a 1964 issue of Gourmet,  I stumbled upon this recipe for souffled carrots. What a wonderful idea! Can hardly wait to try it.

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And then, from this same issue, one ad. It’s too evocative to leave out.

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