Recipes for Bread/eggs

Madhur Jaffrey in 1974

November 6, 2015


It’s 1974 in Gourmetland, and the gang’s all here. In this issue, you’ll find a dispatch from Paris. Write-ups of the hottest new bistros in New York. A spooky truffle hunting tale from the forests of Lyon. Notice a theme? In the 1970s, Gourmet was very focused on France.

So when I got to Madhur Jaffrey’s piece about her childhood, An Indian Reminiscence, the words almost jumped off of the page. Jaffrey spins tales of warm pooris, cardamom-almond balls covered in thin silver leaf, and chusnis, small sucking mangoes. Here’s my favorite part:



What a wonderful recipe! More practical, maybe, are these pooris. This might be the most irresistible fried bread recipe I’ve ever seen:


These beans are also extremely enticing:IMG_4384



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Kasha is Kool

September 14, 2015




A few weeks ago I put up an ad from a vintage Gourmet, touting a book of buckwheat recipes from the ancient Birkett mill.  The mill, established in 1798, continues to grind today, and it is still putting out Wolff’s buckwheat flour.  I was unable to locate a copy of the book, but today a copy arrived in the mail.  A friend had found one. 

This is the 9th edition, published in 1951.

A short note on buckwheat: it is entirely gluten-free, botanically unrelated to wheat.  (Its closest relative is rhubarb.) Here, without further ado, is a recipe that might appeal to those who eschew gluten.   

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Past Peppers

August 14, 2015


You and I are going to live longer!

That’s the takeaway from a new scientific report that eating spicy food reduces your risk of death by ten percent.  If you’re a hot food fan – and that includes just about everyone I know – this is great news.

But it turns out that Gourmet got there first.  Trolling through a vintage issue of the magazine, I came upon this article on chili peppers – an upbeat users manual – in a thirty-one year old issue (June 1984).

Carolyn Dille and Susan Belsinger walk us through a market in Guadalajara, describing the different notes of each pepper they come across. It’s totally instructional. Better yet, they offer this very appealing recipe for a corn and chili pepper soufflé.


The authors throw in a well-meaning (if patronizing) note of caution. Their disclaimer:

“Some cautionary notes are in order for novice chili pepper consumers. In cultures where large amounts are eaten, people develop a tolerance for their pungency.  The best way to achieve this tolerance is to begin by eating small amounts frequently.  If you are not accustomed to eating hot peppers, consuming a large amount at one time can cause a great deal of unpleasantness.”

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Vintage Parsley Spirals

August 7, 2015

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This is another recipe from yesterday’s vintage issue of Gourmet, June 1983.

Looks very appealing to me.

Tomorrow: a couple of corn recipes from the past.

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